Going Against the Grain
What it means to be resourceful for a Singaporean fashion label
By BERNINA SIngapore
25 Jun 2022
Founder of Shirt Number White, Shannon Lee shares his creative thought
process, and challenges that have led him to his non-conventional
approach to growing a fashion label.
Shannon Lee has built a solid foundation in his understanding of the
aspects of running a fashion label, with his experience at a menswear
brand for almost a decade. Now, for the third year, he is growing his
very own womenswear label, retailing internationally. His collections
are retailed at Boon Paris as well as various online platforms.
How would you describe yourself as a designer?
Just a curious designer pushing the boundaries of clothes-making.
You were trained in fashion womenswear at Raffles Design Institute, and for almost a decade, worked at a menswear label. What made you launch your own brand in 2019?
I wanted to revisit womenswear pattern-making, and to push the envelope on wearing and making a garment. I chose to start off with the white shirt to be the initial translation of this idea, revolving around a capsule of five to eight re-interpreted and artisanal shirts per year.
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Walk us through your creative process, as much as you can disclose…
I usually start with research that helps me focus visually and informatively, so that the concept is translated into the shirts’ cutting, form, and details.
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
There are experimenting and developing mechanisms in the shirts,
and more often than not, the details are an evolution from the previous collection.
It continues with copious amounts of sketching and sampling prototypes until I am
able to present shirts that embody the inspiration.
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Subsequently, I discuss with the photographer that I am working
with to work on the visuals. Usually they will be segregated into catalog, lookbook,
and/or campaign imagery.
As I have my showroom in Paris that showcases the collection for buyers a season in
advance, I will have to wait for orders before arranging for production of the
shirts. Once it is done, I have them shipped to my overseas buyers, and my local
stockists will also receive the shirts.
Images courtesy of: Shirt Number White
Where are your collections made?
Currently they are made by local seamstresses right here in Singapore.
What are the biggest challenges you have faced, operating from Singapore?
Personally, I feel that we have a huge lack of industry infrastructure that we need to source production overseas, once the designs or workmanship becomes more complicated. There aren’t facilities or places that allow designers to explore more in textile development, as well as production capabilities besides traditional sewing.
So what’s your studio setup like?
As I make my own samples from scratch, I have my draping mannequin, drafting table, a couple of industrial machines for general sewing, and a portable home-machine for multi-purpose stitching such as buttonholes. Of course, bales of fabric to create our pieces for our overseas showroom.
Images courtesy of: @shirtnumberwhite
Images courtesy of: Shirt Number White
Despite the lack of infrastructure, Shannon has found his way around sampling and
production challenges. He has crafted a unique mode of working, using equipment
that best suits his brand’s location, distribution, and quantities.
Follow the developments of Shannon’s creations for Shirt Number White
@shirtnumberwhite,
and browse his collections here:
Singapore:
Nana and Bird
www.nanaandbird.com
Society A
www.society-a.com
International:
Idle Wild Woman www.idlewildwoman.com
Fuggiamo
www.fuggiamo.com
Enny Monaco
hwww.ennymonacostyle.com/
Images courtesy of: Shirt Number White